Dubai Fashion Week (DFW) continues to cement its reputation as a global fashion powerhouse, offering a platform that showcases innovative designs, cultural heritage, and the avant-garde, all while celebrating diversity. Day Five of DFW was a particularly dynamic affair, with the spotlight on brands that have carved their niche in the fast-evolving world of fashion. From REBORN’s collection for the fast-paced, modern-day individual to Ibrahim Shebani’s cultural homage with Born In Exile, the return of Benang Jarum with its ethereal motifs, and Buttonscarves’ spectacular ‘Lucent Dusk’ collection, this day was a testament to how Dubai is fast becoming a significant player on the international fashion map.
REBORN: Fashion for the Fast-Paced Modern Life
Kicking off Day Five was REBORN, which delivered a Spring/Summer 2025 collection designed for those living life in the fast lane. The collection was an ode to modernity, bringing wardrobe staples such as shirt dresses, two-piece sets, and skirts, all distinguished by asymmetrical draping and sharp, contemporary silhouettes. REBORN’s use of a neutral color palette—whites, beiges, browns, and blacks—gave the collection a sophisticated yet minimalist appeal.
Fabrics played a key role in defining the brand’s vision, with crinkled cotton and silk lending a tactile element to the otherwise sleek designs. One of the standout aspects of the collection was its versatility. These pieces seamlessly transitioned from day to night, offering the wearer both comfort and style for various occasions. REBORN’s commitment to inclusivity was also clear in its body-positive designs, catering to a wide range of body types and sizes.
What really made this collection a true highlight of the day was its focus on sustainability and circular fashion. REBORN has clearly taken a stand against the throwaway culture of fast fashion, designing garments built to last, both in terms of durability and style. These are pieces that you can see yourself wearing for years to come, proof that fashion can be both stylish and sustainable.
Born In Exile: A Celebration of Libyan Heritage
Ibrahim Shebani’s Born In Exile took the audience on a journey through Libya’s rich cultural history, combining traditional elements with modern aesthetics in a striking Spring/Summer 2025 collection. Shebani’s designs were a tribute to his Libyan roots, with iconic symbols like the Ghazala fountain woven into the fabric of his collection. The line featured an array of pieces, from tracksuits and knitwear to leather patchwork, all embodying a blend of cultural significance and contemporary style.
One of the more poignant elements in Shebani’s collection was the use of denim, which represented the aging of statues, a subtle nod to the passage of time and the resilience of cultural monuments. The color palette—featuring vibrant reds, soft whites, and bold oranges—added energy and vibrancy to the collection, while the capes and layered textures introduced an air of sophistication.
What set Born In Exile apart was the seamless fusion of tradition with modernity. The collection wasn’t just a celebration of Libya’s cultural identity but also a reminder that fashion can be a powerful medium for preserving heritage. Shebani’s thoughtful approach to design ensures that his pieces are not only visually compelling but also culturally enriching, promoting the importance of cultural identity in today’s fast-paced, globalized world.
Benang Jarum: A Triumphant Return to DFW
Indonesian label Benang Jarum made a resounding comeback to Dubai Fashion Week with its Spring/Summer 2025 Forest Toile collection. This collection masterfully blended classic toile de Jouy motifs with modern stripes, creating a visual narrative that felt both timeless and contemporary. The muted color palette—featuring carmine rose, powder blue, and French vanilla—served as the perfect canvas for the intricate embroidery that adorned each piece.
Co-founder Allyssa Hawadi was in attendance to witness the global acclaim her collection received. Benang Jarum has long been a brand that champions modesty while embracing the sensuality of feminine design, and this collection was no different. The pieces struck a delicate balance between modesty and allure, with models gracefully showcasing how ancient Asian influences can be reimagined for the modern woman.
What truly elevated this collection was the attention to detail, from the impeccable fabric layering to the thoughtful selection of accessories. Benang Jarum’s Forest Toile wasn’t just a visual feast; it was an experience, transporting the audience to a world where modesty and sensuality coexist in perfect harmony. The overall presentation, from the models to the music, was cohesive and deeply impactful—a true highlight of Day Five.
APRIL & ALEX: A Turn from a Promising Brand
London-based luxury brand APRIL & ALEX, founded by Nigerian designer Didi Akinyelure, has built a reputation for its bold, unapologetic designs that celebrate empowered women. Typically known for merging structured silhouettes with avant-garde styles, the brand’s collections have historically resonated with women who aren’t afraid to stand out. However, this season’s collection at Dubai Fashion Week fell flat.
To be honest, I wasn’t impressed with this collection. While the brand usually excels in creating pieces that scream confidence and individuality, this showcase lacked the finesse expected from a luxury label. The pieces felt ill-fitted on the models, with little to no styling to bring out the potential in the designs. The choice of materials also felt uninspired, giving off a ready-to-wear-meets-mass-fashion vibe, which is a far cry from the brand’s usual high-fashion appeal.
That’s not to say the collection was without merit. There were moments where the colors and shapes showed promise, but the lack of proper fitting and thoughtful styling ultimately let the collection down. It’s a shame to see such potential squandered, and one can only hope that future collections will return to the bold, empowered designs that have become synonymous with APRIL & ALEX.
Buttonscarves: A Modest Fashion Revolution
The evening ended on a high note with the much-anticipated Lucent Dusk collection by Jakarta-born label Buttonscarves. Known for its seamless fusion of modest fashion with modern luxury, Buttonscarves delivered a collection that was both captivating and inspiring. Attended by notable figures like the Ambassador of Indonesia to the UAE, H.E. Husin Bagis, and supermodel Rawdah Mohamed, the show was a celebration of the brand’s mission to bring Indonesian fashion to the global stage.
The collection featured an array of luxurious fabrics, such as satin and jacquard, paired with oversized renditions of their iconic Nina, Mindy, and Beverly bags. The color palette was rich and moody, with deep tones adding an air of sophistication to the flowing, elegant silhouettes. Buttonscarves has long been a name synonymous with modest fashion, but this collection took that concept to new heights, offering pieces that felt both modern and timeless.
What truly set this collection apart was its collaboration with Somali-American model and designer Halima Aden. Aden, known for breaking boundaries in the fashion industry with her focus on modest fashion, brought a fresh perspective to Buttonscarves, infusing the collection with a minimalist yet elegant aesthetic. The clean lines and attention to detail were reminiscent of Dior, with a focus on elevated accessories that complemented each look. Every piece felt carefully considered and cohesive, leaving the audience in awe of Buttonscarves’ ability to redefine modest fashion for a global audience.
Fashion Spot Of The Day
While many runway looks left an indelible impression, it was the style in the audience that truly brought a dynamic energy to the day. As I navigated through the venue, I had a meet-cute with the ever-so-stylish Mimigara, the prominent figure behind @TheFashionCoterie’s style and consultancy biz, which has become nothing less than a mecca of styling in Dubai. I felt honored to exchange thoughts on how the city is fast becoming a global hub for fashion innovators. Adding to the mix was the incredible @LucyLach, a Style Expert, Personal Shopper, and advocate for Sustainable Luxury. Her mantra of “Unleashing Your Inner Style Icon” speaks to the transformative power of fashion, and it was evident in her poised, effortless look. Lucy’s ability to turn everyday closets into timeless masterpieces is nothing short of art, and it’s moments like these that remind me how inspiring it is to be surrounded by fellow stylists and entrepreneurs, all working towards reshaping the fashion narrative in unique ways. I couldn’t help but ask her for a picture.
Day 4 of DFW brought its own fashion highlights, particularly when I came across two standout fashion reporters, @Riya_sb and @Quinn, who were effortlessly reviving classic styles with a modern twist. Riya took a @zara piece and, with the right Indian-style jewelry pieces created and just a colorful pashmina, transformed a regular street-style piece into something special. Quinn, on the other hand, was all about texture-luxury, mixing the iconic Le 5 à 7 YSL bag with leather boots elevating his outfit to new heights. It’s always refreshing to see new-gens putting effort into mixing and matching basics, creating looks that feel both fresh and thoughtful.
Being among these industry icons was a reminder of the synergy that emerges when creativity, sustainability, and innovation collide. It felt like more than just a runway event—it was a celebration of fashion as an evolving art form that continues to unite and inspire. As for my own look, BellaDonna dressed me in a dreamy gown that featured a corset and sheer panels. Initially, I wasn’t thrilled about the suggestion, but once I wore it, I was completely enchanted. The gown had a way of transforming on the body, making it the perfect ending to a week of fashion magic.
